écrit par Wladimir T.

chef de course et instructeur au Club Alpin Suisse

Le 5 avril 2013

Il n’y a pas de bon assurage sans auto-assurage

L’auto-assurage forme la base même de tout assurage. Celui qui assure s’attache toujours à deux points fixes situés au-dessus et en dessous du nœud d’encordement (plus ou moins à hauteur de tête et des genoux). Ces deux points d’assurages sont solidarisés par une sangle ou une cordelette. Le système de freinage est placé sur le baudrier.

Quand le relais est déjà équipé – généralement deux points fixes reliés par une chaîne – celui qui assure s’attache aux deux points fixes et place le système d’assurage sur l’autre point fixe (jamais dans un des maillons de la chaîne).

Dans leur ouvrage « Technique et tactique en escalade plaisir », Editions Filidor et Bergpunkt, Emanuel Wassermann et Michael Wicky illustrent et décrivent la méthode pour installer un auto-assurage.

There is no good belay without self-belay

Self-belaying is the very basis of all belaying. The belayer always attaches to two fixed points located above and below the roping knot (more or less at head and knee level). These two belay points are held together by a webbing or cord. The braking system is located on the harness.

When the belay is already equipped – generally two fixed points linked by a chain – the belayer attaches himself to the two fixed points and places the belay system on the other fixed point (never in one of the links of the chain).

In their book « Technique et tactique en escalade plaisir », published by Filidor and Bergpunkt, Emanuel Wassermann and Michael Wicky illustrate and describe how to install a self-belay system.

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