Holding the ice axe

One of the first questions beginners ask themselves is: how do I hold my ice axe?

The answer from Yvon Chouinard, a leading glaciologist, is as follows:

« Always hold the ice axe with the point forward, away from the body, … the palm of the hand rests on the purlin, the thumb rests on the eyecup, and the index finger is extended along the point. When the ice axe is held correctly, the point aligns directly with the outstretched arm. »

When descending, some guides recommend holding the ice axe pointing backwards. The reason given is that when you fall backwards, the tip of the ice axe naturally digs into the snow, with the dual advantage of reducing the risk of injury and keeping the ice axe in the right position to slow the slide.

Unfortunately, the opposite is true of a forward fall.

However, falls onto the buttocks or back are much more common, especially for beginners who tend not to lean forward enough when descending.

Ice axe – 3rd support point!

Used properly, the ice axe is a remarkable tool for progress and safety. There are six main ways to use an ice axe.

Piolet-canne (uphill)

The climber holds the ice axe so as to lean on it. This is the most common use of the ice axe.

Piolet-canne (downhill)

On descent, the ice axe is held so that the pick is pointing backwards.

In an article I found interesting, Yves Saliba describes how to hold an ice axe when using it as a walking stick.

Pick and shovel technique

The ice axe is held in both hands, more or less horizontally in front of you, with the tip planted in the snow and the pick pointing forwards. The hand furthest from the slope covers the head of the ice axe, palm resting on the purlin. This hand pulls upwards. The other hand grips the shaft of the ice axe close to the tip while providing support.

The pick and shovel technique is frequently used when ascending or descending at an angle, and when traversing steep slopes.

Pick-anchor

The ice axe can be held above you at arm’s length, anchored by holding the shaft close to the socket with one hand. To ascend, you pull on the shaft of the axe – a technique known as « piolet-traction ». The ice axe can also be held with both hands, at hip level, and used for support. The axe-anchor is used on steep and very steep slopes, for ascents, traverses and descents.

Ice pick (used on descent)

Le montagnard face au vide, plante le pic du piolet au niveau des pieds. Le piolet est tenu d’une seule main.

Pendant que le montagnard descend, la main coulisse le long du manche en exerçant une force vers le haut, arrivée aux frettes elle retire le piolet.

Size of steps

The use of crampons has consigned the tedious chore of trimming steps to oblivion. Sometimes, however, you find yourself without crampons on snow that’s too hard or on ice, or you come up against a steep passage on an easy run. In these cases, you use your ice axe to carve out the few steps that will allow you to continue safely.

Before you start carving, take a good look at the terrain to determine its weak points and force your way through with the minimum number of steps. Keep your balance so that you can carve with precision and a minimum number of ice axe strokes.

You carve using the pick and the bit of the ice axe. It is best to hold the pick close to the socket with both hands.

If the slope is steep, you cut with one hand (the downstream hand), the other hand resting against the slope or holding on to a grip previously cut into the ice.

On very steep slopes, it’s sometimes a good idea to lean your leg and knee up against the slope to maintain your balance.

It’s important to remember that precision of stroke is more important than strength. You need to practise using both your right and left hands. On the way down, the steps will be closer together than on the way up.

In very hard snow, it is often best to cut notches for the sole ‘in stride’, i.e. at the same pace as you walk. The advantage of this method is twofold: speed and less effort.

The ice axe is held in one hand; the head of the ice axe is made to describe a pendulum movement so that the bit attacks the snow almost tangentially, one stroke of the ice axe is enough to cut a notch. By synchronising the movement of the arm with that of the step, you can cut a small step just in front of the foot that will be placed in it.

Piolet-frein …or how to stop a slide

The techniques described here are those which allow the climber to stop an involuntary slide himself, without the intervention of the rope (or to slow down a slide to reduce the impact on the rope). There are four principles to observe:

♦ avoid uncoordinated movements, stay calm and clear-headed,
♦ act quickly to avoid gaining too much speed,
♦ before any braking attempt, place and maintain your body in a normal position: head up and feet down,
♦ when using crampons, keep your feet raised so that they don’t catch on the snow.

My ice axe goes everywhere with me.
It often brings a smile to the faces of « climbers » in shorts and trainers.
But I’ve often found it useful, even on dirt or grass slopes.