Physical training

Although we immediately think of physical training,
mental and technical training should not be neglected.

Physical training is taken here in the physiological sense of the term, as a defensive preparation against the aggressions of the mountains. Mountaineers have to work hard to progress and adapt their bodies to the climate and altitude.

— Exercise training —

Exercise training aims to develop endurance and stamina.
Endurance is the ability to make a moderate effort over a long period of time, such as walking in the mountains.
Resistance is the ability to make a sustained effort over a relatively short period of time, such as climbing over an overhang.
Training develops the cardiovascular, respiratory and muscular systems. Walking, fitness training and climbing are all good ways of achieving this.

Walking

It is important to start this training several months before the altitude race period. You need to walk regularly (at least once a week) and in the great outdoors.

This is the simplest and most effective form of mountain training. Choose a varied route to alternate between flat and uphill sections. The aim is not to walk faster and faster, but to build up power and automatic cadence. It’s a good idea to cover long distances at a slow, steady pace (the mountain walk), punctuated by short, evenly-spaced stops.

As far as I’m concerned, I give myself a five-minute rest every hour (and drink while I’m at it).

Intensive hiking (at least 5 hours) is good preparation for the mountains. The ascent to the refuge is ultimately a hike. It is therefore an integral part of a mountain race.

Running (under medical supervision), swimming and cycling are also good ways of training endurance.

Physical fitness

It is a good supplement. It’s also a way of developing stamina.

Rock climbing

Rock climbing is an excellent way to improve your physical training while perfecting your technique. The best training comes from bouldering. This allows you to link passages quickly, with an effort similar to that of running, and to learn all the climbing movements, both up and down.

— Climate training —

To make the most of their escapades, mountaineers need to train to withstand the cold, heat and altitude.

Cold weather training

You can improve your resistance to the cold, especially locally. Scottish showers and swimming in cold water are good ways of getting your body used to the cold. To get your hands used to withstanding low temperatures, you can use the method of alternately immersing your hands in hot and cold water, gradually increasing the immersion times and temperature differences.

Heat training

In the climatic conditions usually encountered by mountaineers, there is no way of improving the body’s resistance to heat. The only way to combat the heat is to evaporate sweat. So it’s essential to drink enough fluids and wear breathable clothing.

Training for altitude

This is essentially a matter of acclimatising to the altitude, which is acquired above all by practising mountaineering, making sure that the progression is gradual. Breathing apnoea and swimming underwater are good complements to walking at altitude.