Nouvelle voie au Saipal / New track at Saipal
Expédition de la section genevoise du CAS au Saipal
Katmandou et marche d’approche
20 septembre
Départ des bagages collectifs et des surplus personnels pour Nepalganj puis Simikot.
Mise en place de la réserve en cas de secours par hélico. Achats divers.
En passant près d’un temple nous nous sommes fait bénir par l’apposition d’une marque rouge sur le front « la Tika« .
21 septembre
Réception et réparation du sac de compression
Notre hôtel, de style colonial, est planté au milieu des rizières, à 10 mn du bazar en rickshaw.
22 septembre
Départ du vol pour Nepalganj à 12h30, sur un Twin Otter, après un pique-nique à la buvette de l’aéroport.
Nous volons à 3300 m. d’altitude, et distinguons l’Annapurna puis le Dhaulagiri. Aterrissage parfait à Nepalganj (150 m.). Il fait chaud (35°) et très humide.
Des rizières à perte de vue et de grosses rivières boueuses. Ville typiquement indienne.
Les locaux préparent activement la fête « Dashain« .
23 septembre
Départ pour Simikot. Réveil à 04h15, décollage de l’avion vers 06h45. Nous volons à 4115 m. parmi les nuages.
Simikot est une ville des montagnes du nord-ouest de l’Hymalaya népalais, située à 2910 m. d’altitude.
Le pilote a du mal à distinguer la piste. Au 4ème passage… enfin une éclaircie sur la piste en terre battue de 500 m.
Déchargement. Tout le village est là… c’est le fête !
Le gros du matériel était déjà arrivé sur place la veille, avec un sherpa et un aide-cuisinier.
Simikot
Le cuisine fume. Une grande bâche plastifiée est étalée pour nous accueillir avec le thé traditionnel.
Nos tentes sont montées. Les coutures imperméabilisées, et les fermetures éclair passées au savon pour améliorer leur fonctionnement.
Le souper est servi sous la tente mess à la lueur d’une lampe à kérosène.
24 septembre
Petit déjeuner servi par le personnel népalais à l’entrée de la tente. J’accompagne Alex à la fontaine du village pour une lessive et quelques ablutions. L’après-midi, visite de Simikot et balade vers un « Chörten » (un des symboles de la religion bouddhiste). Les yaks tant attendus ne sont toujours pas arrivés.
25 septembre
Réveil à 06h30. Les yaks sont là. Nous plions nos tentes et départ.A la vue du désordre par manque d’organisation, Georges s’enfuit suivi de Geneviève, notre infirmière. Je ne tarde pas à les suivre.
Descente très raide vers le fond de la vallée. Nous suivons le chemin du bas, les yaks celui du haut, plus long mais plus facile.
En traversant un hameau, Geneviève donne son reste de pique-nique à une petite fille. La maman nous offre des pommes de terre en robe des champs, délicieuses.
A Dara Pori nous croisons une fillette de 7-8 ans qui porte un jerrycan d’eau de 20 litres.
Les toits servent de pâture
Le temple bouddhique du village
La boutique du village
Nous croisons une caravane de chèvres qui fait la navette entre le Népal et le Tibet. La caravane descend du Tibet avec du sel pour remonter ensuite avec le riz…. un troc indispensable.
Notre caravane de yaks, elle, monte vers le prochain camp qui sera installé près de la rivière Karnali.
26 septembre
La veille nous avons perdu un yak.
Aussi ce jour. Jacques engueule les yakmen et leur ordonne de constituer 6 groupes de yaks marchant à distance respectable les uns des autres. Les charges transportées sur le dos des yaks souffrent moins également.
Nous regagnons la rive droite de la rivière
et montons de 500 m. environ jusqu’au village Kangalgaon.
Nous déjeunons à l’entrée du village entourés d’enfants.
Une fois dans le village nous sommes accueillis cordialement et invités à monter sur le toit des maisons.
Jacques nous apprend que les gens vivant là
n’ont pas vu de Blancs depuis cinq ans.
Sommes également conviés à assister à une cérémonie religieuse dans une petite pièce.
Une toilette (presque) complète dans un torrent.
Rude montée pour atteindre notre camp de ce soir
Un jeune yakman
Nous atteignons enfin Jumla, après avoir passé le col Jumlakolagna.
Lors de la cérémonie, les officiants jouaient de la trompette,
taillée dans un tibia humain.
27 septembre
Le camp de Jumla a été rebaptisé « camp du serpent et des deux aigles ».
En effet, Georges s’est réveillé avec une superbe vipère dans sa tente, lovée à quelques 30 cm de sa tête.
Cette nuit, comme les précédentes, il a plu. Ce matin il fait beau.
Elles nous offrent le Gorgour Tchaï et du petit lait. Nous leur donnons des piments rouges en échange.
Repas et ablutions
au bord d’un charmant lac.
La montée au col Chhotelagna est long. Nous sommes, Geneviève et mois, distancés. Je suis les traces et me repère aux jumelles sur Georges qui apparaît par moment au loin.
Arrivés au col nous sommes à 4690 m. La descente est vertigineuse. Nous arrivons au camp à la nuit tombante. Shanka Lama nous aide à tailler les terrasses pour nos tentes.
28 septembre
Le matin je décoiuvre que le flacon de shampoing s’est ouvert dans ma trousse de toilette…. Tout a été nettoyé, sauf mes cheveux.
Il fait beau. Rude descente vers le pont qui traverse la Kairang Khola. Nous passons près de Chala et faisons une longue traversée jusqu’à Tothorya.
Nous croisons des porteuses de foin…
…et deux femmes qui égrainent du sarrasin avec les pieds.
Le yak perdu est revenu… mais sans sa charge !
29 septembre
l’officier de liaison jeûne jusqu’à 10h15 et organise ensuite une petite cérémonie pour fêter le Dashain. Le Dashain est le plus grand festival célébré au Népal. Cette fête dure environ 15 jours. Après la cérémonie, nous nous remettons en route pour la dernière étape, celle qui va nous mener au camp de base.La progression devient plus délicate, surtout pour les yaks. A un endroit, les sherpas doivent tailler une sente d’une trentaine de centimètres dans le flanc de la moraine. Nous pique-niquons au bord d’un torrent sous les bouleaux. Le camp de base est attient vers 15h30.
Chacun prépare un emplacement pour sa tente.
Je taille une plate-forme à l’aide du piolet,
et l’étaye avec quelques grosses pierres.
30 septembre
La diane est à 8h. Le soleil réchauffe déjà le camp.Les yakmen sont payés et nous leur donnons un paquet de cigarettes à chacun. Ils quittent le camp avec toutes les bêtes et nous nous sentons tout à coup isolés au milieu de l’Himalaya. Chacun vaque à ses occupation : lessives, lettres, aménagements…
Geneviève l’infirmière prodigue quelques soins.
Je suis moi-même soigné pour une petite infection à l’index gauche.
Le camp de base (4150 m) et ascension
1er octobre
A 7h30 un sherpa nous apporte une tasse de thé sous la tente. Une agréable tradition que j’ai appréciée lors de toutes mes expéditions ou treks au Népal. Copieux petit-déjeuner sous la tente-mess : omelettes, galettes Paratha et tsampa (farine grillée), accompagnées de thé.
A 10h, les Népalais organisent une cérémonie pour conjurer le sort et amadouer les dieux de la montagne (Himalaya = montagne des dieux). Ils dressent un petit autel et tendent au-dessus du camp des petits carrés de tissus, de 5 couleurs différentes (représentant les 5 éléments). Ce sont les drapeaux de prière.
L’après-midi est consacré à la préparation du matériel d’altitude et à la construction des deux piliers du pont par assemblage de gros blocs de pierre.
Le lendemain, ces piliers seront reliés par une poutre provenant de la cuisine.
Les drapeaux de prière sont de petites pièces de tissu rectangulaires colorées et imprimées, suspendues au passages des cols, au sommet des montagnes, au croisement des chemins, sur le toit des maisons, sur les ponts, à l’extérieur des temples. Selon les adeptes du bouddhisme tibétain le vent qui souffle, caressant au passage les formules sacrées imprimées, les disperse dans l’espace et les transmet ainsi qu’aux dieux et à tous ceux qu’il touche dans sa course.
2 octobre
Dans la nuit la température a baissé et la neige est apparue vers 4500m.
Nous commençons à monter du matériel au camp intermédiaire (4800m). Tentes, nourriture, bois pour la cuisine ainsi que le matériel technique nécessaire pour l’ascension du Saipal.
En chemin nous construisons des cairns sur le pierrier et la moraine pour assurer le cheminement en cas de brouillard.
Longue montée avec un sac à dos particulièrement lourd. Les chevilles souffrent. La fatigue et le froid perturbent mes fonctions digestives. je suis malade, et la nuit est agitée por cause de vomissements et de diarrhées.
3 octobre
Je ne suis pas vaillant et je reste au camp de base avec Geneviève et Georges. les autres remontent pour passer la nuit au camp intermédiaire et poursuivent avec l’installation du camp I à 5200m.
Notre objectif se précise
Camp intermédiaire
4 octobre
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5 octobre
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6 octobre
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7 octobre
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8 octobre
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Le soir du 9 octobre
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10 octobre
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l’Auteur du récit au camp I (5200m)
Le Saipal vu du camp I
Ringi, qui était descendu ce matin ….
11 octobre
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12 octobre
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Une expédition autrichienne arrivée là ….
13 octobre
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14 octobre
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Vacation au camp I
15 octobre
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Je suis nostalgique …….
J’arrive au camp de basevers 16h30 …….
Le soir, l’officier de liaison et moi sommes seul.
Nous soupons ensemble dans la cuisine du camp de base.
16 octobre
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17 octobre
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18 octobre
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19 octobre
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20 octobre
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Il n’y en a point mais j’ai la surprise de voir arriver toute une famille. Ils sont encore plus surpris que moi, surtout de croiser un Blanc à cet endroit. Nous apprendrons plus tard qu’ils sont passés près du camp tout en l’évitant soigneusement. Ce serait des Tibétains ayant évités le poste de contrôle de Muchu pour entrer clandestinement au Népal.
De retour au camp ……
21 octobre
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22 octobre
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23 octobre
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Les yakmen qui sont là depuis le 20 octobre commencent à s’impatienter. ……
La veille, Gaston et Jacques ……
Le retour
Nous quittons enfin le camp de base. Il est 11h15. ……
24 octobre
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25 octobre
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A 18h, une communication avec Gaston nous apprend que Jacques Montaz, accompagné de Tendi Sherpa est parvenu au sommet du Saïpal à 15h15.
L’expédition est donc réussie. La section genevoise du CAS a ouvert une nouvelle voie dans l’Himalaya !
Lire le récit en pdf
27 octobre
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28 octobre
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29 octobre
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30 octobre
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Il est 17h et ……..
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31 octobre
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Face est du Saïpal
vue depuis Saïna
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1er novembre
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2 novembre
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3 novembre
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4 novembre
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Hormis les petits bobos ……
5 novembre
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Finalement nous quittons Simikot le 8 novembre
Expedition by the Geneva section of the SAC to Saipal
Kathmandu and approach walk
19th September 1990
Arrival in Kathmandu.
We are welcomed by Tensing, who introduces us to the Sherpas and the other members of the expedition, as well as the equipment for the trek to base camp.
20 September
Departure of group luggage and personal surplus for Nepalganj then Simikot.
Setting up the reserve in case of helicopter rescue. Miscellaneous purchases.
Passing by a temple, we were blessed with a red mark on our foreheads called the Tika.
21st September
Reception and repair of the compression bag
Our colonial-style hotel is set in the middle of rice paddies, 10 minutes from the bazaar by rickshaw.
22nd September
Departure for Nepalganj at 12:30 on a Twin Otter, after a picnic at the airport refreshment bar.
We flew to an altitude of 3,300 m., with views of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. Perfect landing at Nepalganj (150 m.). It’s hot (35°C) and very humid.
Rice paddies as far as the eye can see and big muddy rivers. A typically Indian town.
The locals are busy preparing for the « Dashain » festival.
23rd September
Departure for Simikot. We wake up at 4.15am and take off at 6.45am. We fly at 4115 m. through the clouds.
Simikot is a town in the mountains of north-western Nepal’s Hymalaya region, at an altitude of 2,910 metres.
The pilot struggled to make out the track. On the 4th run… at last some light on the 500m dirt track.
Unloading. The whole village is there… it’s a party!
Most of the equipment had already arrived on site the day before, along with a sherpa and a kitchen assistant.
Simikot
The kitchen is smoking. A large plastic sheet is spread out to welcome us with the traditional tea.
Our tents are assembled. The seams are waterproofed and the zips are soaped to improve their operation.
Dinner is served in the mess tent by the light of a paraffin lamp.
24th September
Breakfast served by the Nepalese staff at the entrance to the tent. I accompany Alex to the village fountain for a wash and a few ablutions. In the afternoon, we visit Simikot and walk to a « Chörten » (one of the symbols of the Buddhist religion). The long-awaited yaks have still not arrived.
25th September
Wake-up call at 06:30. The yaks are here. We pack up our tents and set off.
At the sight of the disorganised mess, Georges runs off followed by Geneviève, our nurse. I soon followed.
A very steep descent to the bottom of the valley. We take the lower path, the yaks the upper one, which is longer but easier.
As we drive through a hamlet, Geneviève gives a little girl the rest of her picnic. The mother offers us delicious potatoes in their field dresses.
At Dara Pori, we pass a 7-8 year-old girl carrying a 20-litre jerrycan of water.
Roofs are used as pasture
The village Buddhist temple
The village shop
We pass a caravan of goats travelling back and forth between Nepal and Tibet. The caravan comes down from Tibet with salt and then goes back up with rice…. an essential barter.
Our caravan of yaks climbs towards the next camp, which will be set up near the Karnali river.
26 September
The day before we lost a yak.
Also that day. Jacques scolds the yakmen and orders them to form 6 groups of yaks walking at a respectable distance from each other. The loads carried on the yaks’ backs suffer less equally.
We return to the right bank of the river
and climb about 500m to the village of Kangalgaon.
We have lunch at the entrance to the village, surrounded by children.
Once in the village, we are warmly welcomed and invited to climb onto the roofs of the houses.
Jacques tells us that the people living there
haven’t seen a white person for five years.
We are also invited to attend a religious ceremony in a small room.
An (almost) complete toilet in a torrent.
A tough climb to reach our camp this evening
A young yakman
We finally reach Jumla,
after crossing the Jumlakolagna pass.
During the ceremony, the officiants played the trumpet,
carved from a human tibia.
27th September
The Jumla camp has been renamed the « camp of the snake and the two eagles ».
Georges woke up with a superb viper in his tent, curled up some 30 cm from his head.
Last night, as in previous nights, it rained. This morning the weather is fine.
As we leave the forest, we are greeted by three Tibetan women living under canvas and branches.
They offer us Gorgour Tchaï and whey. We give them red chillies in exchange.
Meals and ablutions
on the banks of a charming lake.
The climb to the Chhotelagna pass is a long one. Geneviève and I are behind. I follow the tracks and use my binoculars to spot Georges, who appears from time to time in the distance.
We reach the pass at 4690 m. The descent is vertiginous. We arrive at the camp at dusk. Shanka Lama helps us carve out the terraces for our tents.
28th September
In the morning I discover that the shampoo bottle has opened in my toilet bag…. Everything has been washed, except my hair.
The weather is fine. A tough descent to the bridge over the Kairang Khola. We pass near Chala and make the long crossing to Tothorya.
We pass some hay carriers…
…and two women shelling buckwheat with their feet.
The lost yak has returned… but without its load!
29th September
The liaison officer fasts until 10.15am and then organises a small ceremony to celebrate the Dashain. The Dashain is the biggest festival celebrated in Nepal. The festival lasts around 15 days. After the ceremony, we set off again for the last stage, the one that will take us to the base camp, where the progress becomes trickier, especially for the yaks. At one point, the sherpas had to cut a path about thirty centimetres into the side of the moraine. We have a picnic by a stream under birch trees. The base camp is reached around 3.30pm.
Everyone prepares a spot for their tent.
I carve out a platform with the ice axe,
and prop it up with a few large stones.
30th September
Daybreak is at 8am. The yakmen are paid and we give them each a packet of cigarettes. They leave the camp with all the animals and we suddenly feel isolated in the middle of the Himalayas. Everyone goes about their business: washing, writing letters, arranging things…
Geneviève, the nurse, provides some care.
I myself am being treated for a small infection in my left index finger.
Base camp (4150 m) and ascent
1st October
At 7:30 a Sherpa brings us a cup of tea in the tent. A pleasant tradition that I have enjoyed on all my expeditions and treks in Nepal. A hearty breakfast in the mess tent: omelettes, Paratha pancakes and tsampa (toasted flour), served with tea.
At 10am, the Nepalese organise a ceremony to ward off fate and appease the mountain gods (Himalaya = mountain of the gods). They set up a small altar and hang small squares of cloth, in 5 different colours (representing the 5 elements), over the camp. These are the prayer flags.
The afternoon is devoted to preparing the equipment for the altitude and building the two pillars of the bridge by assembling large blocks of stone.
The next day, these pillars will be connected by a beam from the kitchen.
Prayer flags are small rectangular pieces of coloured and printed cloth, hung from mountain passes, mountain tops, crossroads, house roofs, bridges and outside temples. According to the followers of Tibetan Buddhism, the wind that blows, caressing the sacred printed formulas as it passes, scatters them in space and transmits them to the gods and to all those it touches in its path.
2nd October
During the night the temperature dropped and the snow appeared at around 4500m.
We start assembling equipment at the intermediate camp (4800m). Tents, food, wood for cooking and the technical equipment needed for the ascent of Saipal.
Along the way, we build cairns on the scree and moraine to keep us on track in case of fog.
A long climb with a particularly heavy rucksack. My ankles were aching. Tiredness and cold disrupt my digestive functions. I’m sick, and the night is restless because of vomiting and diarrhoea.
3rd October
I’m not up to the task and stay at base camp with Geneviève and Georges. The others go back up to spend the night at the intermediate camp and continue with the installation of camp I at 5200m.
Our objective is becoming clearer
Intermediate camp
4 octobre
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5 octobre
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6 octobre
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7 octobre
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8 octobre
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Le soir du 9 octobre
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10 octobre
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The author of the story at Camp I (5200m)
Saipal seen from camp I
Ringi, qui était descendu ce matin ….
11 octobre
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12 octobre
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Une expédition autrichienne arrivée là ….
13 octobre
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14 octobre
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Vacation au camp I
15 octobre
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Je suis nostalgique …….
J’arrive au camp de basevers 16h30 …….
Le soir, l’officier de liaison et moi sommes seul.
Nous soupons ensemble dans la cuisine du camp de base.
16 octobre
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17 octobre
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18 octobre
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19 octobre
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20 octobre
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Il n’y en a point mais j’ai la surprise de voir arriver toute une famille. Ils sont encore plus surpris que moi, surtout de croiser un Blanc à cet endroit. Nous apprendrons plus tard qu’ils sont passés près du camp tout en l’évitant soigneusement. Ce serait des Tibétains ayant évités le poste de contrôle de Muchu pour entrer clandestinement au Népal.
De retour au camp ……
21 octobre
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22 octobre
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23 octobre
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Les yakmen qui sont là depuis le 20 octobre commencent à s’impatienter. ……
La veille, Gaston et Jacques ……
Le retour
Nous quittons enfin le camp de base. Il est 11h15. ……
24 octobre
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25 octobre
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A 18h, une communication avec Gaston nous apprend que Jacques Montaz, accompagné de Tendi Sherpa est parvenu au sommet du Saïpal à 15h15.
L’expédition est donc réussie. La section genevoise du CAS a donc ouvert une nouvelle voie dans l’Himalaya !
Lire le récit en pdf
27 octobre
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28 octobre
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29 octobre
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30 octobre
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Il est 17h et ……..
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31 octobre
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Face est du Saïpal
vue depuis Saïna
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1er novembre
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2 novembre
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3 novembre
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4 novembre
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Hormis les petits bobos ……
5 novembre
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Finalement nous quittons Simikot le 8 novembre
